Richard Chai is one of the few designers who I think consistently shows wonderfully wearable clothing. Since he launched his menswear line in Fall 2008 he seems to have flown under the radar, albeit receiving a nod from the CFDA as one of the Fashion Fund's finalists. I feel it is a bit of a shame really, but I suppose that considering how he actually owns his own label, his work is perhaps not afforded the same media opportunities as other designers who may be under the wing of major backers.
I suppose I feel that were Chai to show in London as opposed in New York he would garner far greater attention. Yet, as much as London allows a chance for less well-known designers to show, it does not lend itself to finding that all important security of financial backing. Alas, London is a cruel mother to her young fashion designers. Then again, given that Chai shows in New York, it does suggest that he has quite the secure financial background.
Anyhow, I digress, what I actually wanted to discuss were trousers (...or pants, if you must).
Firstly I have to say that I really would like some mohair arm warmers for Winter. Although as much as I loved the styling with the pushed up sleeves, I am not entirely sure how practical that would be on a cold day. However aesthetically it looked quite beautiful.
What attracts me most to Chai's work are his silhouettes - he has quite the fitted upper with a slouched lower half tapering gently towards the ankles. It is quite a subtle cut, and yet looking at the thighs and seat of the trousers you really do notice the difference. The more comfortable fit is no doubt a testament to his particularly casual style, and it is quite refreshing in the light of knitted leggings and super fitted trousers.
I have been on a personal hunt for a rather specific style of trousers. I would like a pair of woolen high rise trousers, although with a visible slouch to the seat, with a pleated front, and a leg which tapers gently towards the ankles, essentially providing a similar silhouette to Chai's signature cut. Admittedly his trousers tend to be flat fronted to emphasis the sport's wear inspired influences that run throughout his work, however I find them just as attractive.
I love these trousers, they have a cool Robert Geller edge to them.
Fall 2009
Of course as much as I would love a pair of smarter trousers in Chai's cut, such as the two above, he is most notable for his more casual and minimal designs. The casual trousers below, from his Spring 2009 collection, still stand out particularly vivid in my mind. It is odd to think of how relevant these looks still are. I must admit that the first look with the pink cotton pea coat and khakis does remind me quite a lot of Comme des Garçons, although being far more fitted than Rei would have you wear.
