Spy Game

Spy Game (2001)
Directed by Tony Scott
Starring Robert Redford and Brad Pitt

Spy Game is a film that I could watch time and time again. As the name would suggest, it is a spy thriller, yet essentially it is a story about relationships. The two main driving forces behind the plot are the relationship between Nathan Muir (Redford) and his apprentice Tom Bishop (Pitt), and Bishop and his lover Elizabeth Hadley (played by Catherine McCormack). Indeed relationships between characters are what this film is about, being in that sense an exploration of friendship and love. As illustrious as Redford's career has been, his performance in this film is certainly one of my favourite.

One of the major strengths of the movie is the chemistry between Redford and Pitt. Their characters are presented in a master and apprentice fashion, however as the plot progresses it is almost akin to a father and son. What is so magical about this relationship on screen is the striking visual similarities between the two. One does not think of the actors as playing their roles, they simply are their roles. The film may not be particularly exceptional as far as cinema goes, however the acting is truly a joy to behold.

Acting and cinematography (I love the fast pace editing and shooting style) aside, I particularly enjoy the costume design in this film. Louise Frogley's work in dressing both Redford's and Pitt's characters is fantastic.

Redford's main costume, worn around Langley, has a casual and slightly offbeat quality that clearly sets up and reflects the nature of the character he plays. It has an ease and nonchalance - with the open collar, washed broadcloth shirt and comfortable herringbone blazer - that would have no doubt been of the utmost importance to Muir's work abroad, being able to fit in where needed and quickly gain the trust of those who he needed to trust him. It stands in stark contrast to the ill fitting dark polyester suits and crisp white shirts of those who share his scenes at Langley.

The subtlety between Muir, with his textured blazer and contrasting trousers, or indeed the washed blue shirt, and the relatively standardized and soulless suiting of the ancillary characters means that the attention of the viewer is clearly centered on the character who forms the focus of the scene. However it is not a jarring or highly obvious contrast of costumes, allowing the audience to be gently and almost subconsciously led to understanding the difference between Muir and his counterparts. The costume has the feel of the friendly professor, or the charming uncle, and it is that warmth that is reflected from the character of the role and helps guide the audience.

Plus the costume is pretty damn cool.


Muir's outfits always have a refined elegance, however are comfortably casual. Whereas Bishop's outfits tend to be younger and slightly more period specific, Muir's outfits have a more traditional quality. From the cosy looking Aran sweater, to the dark plaid shirt, to the classic grey polo shirt and linen jacket, the costumes are classic and well tailored. The consistent conservative streak sets up the character as a confident and knowledgeable mentor, however the more casual elements make him seem approachable and emotionally available.

I loved the decision to give Muir a navy wool pea coat. I suppose the obvious costume for an operative abroad would have been a double breasted mac, however the sharp tailoring and structure of a pea coat allows Redford to have more of a strong presence in scenes where close up shots make the majority. Indeed one notes that Redford is presented in the pea coat in scenes where Muir is essentially telling Bishop off, or trying to convey some serious message to his student. It is however not entirely domineering, for in both instances the shirt collar is left open, reflecting the more informal nature of their relationship as master and student.

Beirut is where the audience finally get to see Muir, and not solely Bishop, working actively in the field. In the middle of a war zone Muir has far more functional clothing, yet clothing that still reflects the constructed style of the character. The outfit consists of a well-worn brown leather jacket, washed cream shirt, heather grey t-shirt, thick brown belt, khakis and suede shoes. The combination is perhaps by description slightly more suited to a younger character, however it serves a functional and deservedly cool role in Muir's wardrobe. It works particularly well alongside Bishop's younger and more deconstructed look.

Pitt's main costume in the film is where Bishop works his cover as a war photographer and journalist in Beirut. The costume immediately has a younger and more care free attitude in comparison to Muir's. Note the unbuttoned shirt to reveal bare chest, rolled sleeves, baseball cap, nonchalantly worn photographer's waistcoat, and the slim white jeans and beat up brown boots that are out of shot above. Muir's outfits always have a more traditional vibe, whereas Bishop's tend to have a far more casual and youthful appeal.

The slightly more rebellious and unkempt nature of Pitt's costume reflects the more hot headed and immature nature of Bishop, that of the student trying to prove himself and refusing to detach himself emotionally from the task at hand as his seniors would advise. Indeed I found that particular aspect, of Bishop trying to come to terms and deal with the emotional side of his work deeply fascinating.

Again this story is one that focuses on the characters, and as Bishop struggles with the work he does, he begins to have misgivings that Muir ostensibly, after so many years, does not share. The way both characters deal with the emotional stress and the need to make hard decisions allows Scott to present two characters who truly show a sense of internal struggle without being overdone or cliched.

Brad Pitt in an army uniform...enjoy ladies.

Catherine McCormack's character, Elizabeth Hadley, serves as the boiling point between Muir and Bishop. However the love story between Bishop and Hadley, along with the father and son type relationship between Muir and Bishop, makes the film. In scenes with McCormack, Pitt's costumes are usually based around unbuttoned shirts with rolled sleeves. However rather than plain shirts, they are by detailing somewhat period specific. Indeed whilst nods are subtly made towards the period specificity of scenes (ranging from the early 1970s to the end of the 1980s), what I enjoyed was that the majority of costumes tended to have a more classic quality.


The mirroring of Pitt and Redford, Bishop and Muir, was a stroke of casting genius. I especially enjoy the scene where Muir is leaving Beirut for Argentina. Both characters are presented in similar shirts with epaulets, and similar sunglasses. The audience sees Bishop as the younger counterpart to the aged Muir, and the transformation of Bishop from boy scout-turned-soldier to independent operative is truly complete.

The resemblance is uncanny no?

Some Nathan Muir inspired looks...

1. MSGM Flannel Jacket
2. E Tautz Casual Flat Front Trousers
3. Dolce and Gabbana Silk Tie
4. Givenchy Poplin Shirt
5. J. W. Benson 1915 Trench Watch
6. Nigel Cabourn Army Satchel
7. Folk Shoulder Patch Shirt
8. Clarks Desert Boots
9. Dolce and Gabbana Herringbone Jacket

1. Levi's Vintage Leather Jacket
2. Maison Martin Margiela Ankle Boot
3. Levi's Vintage Cable Knit Sweater
4. Maison Martin Margiela Scratched Cuff
5. Ralph Lauren Checked Oxford Shirt
6. Levi's Vintage Sunset Shirt
7. Rag and Bone T-Shirt
8. Paul Smith Camel Chinos
9. Barbour x Tokihito Yoshida Blouson Jacket

Currently playing: REVOFEV - Kid Cudi

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Midlands

Currently playing: The Fire ft. John Legend - The Roots

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"You plonker, Rodney"

Only Fools and Horses
Cash and Curry
Series 1 Episode 3
Original air date: 22nd September 1981

1. J. W. Anderson Tartan Jacket
2. Burberry Sport Silk T-Shirt
3. Dr Martens Oxblood 1460 Boot
4. Timex Classic Metal Watch
5. DSquared Soldier Pant

Currently playing: Supermagic - Mos Def

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Rolling on by

Currently playing: We Are Young - Mika

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Unexpected Details

Nicole Farhi
Fall 2010

If womenswear is about drama and the reveal, then menswear is about subtlety and the details. A sweeping generalization to be sure, yet it is certainly the case in many respects. On the one hand is a stunning couture gown, cut close to the body, with embellishments and features to highlight the natural beauty of the wearer. On the other is the fine cut suit, conservative and restrained, however with careful details that make it stand apart. Whether that detail be an unexpected interior lining, or contrast stitching around the cuff buttons of the jacket, it is the small things that make a nice garment all the more interesting and beautiful.

Creating a statement does not always require a bright jumpsuit and colourful brogues (although that certainly would be a fascinating direction to take), rather it can often be a case of simply tweaking elements in even the most standard of looks. Take for example blue jeans and a white t-shirt - add a colourful woven belt, roll the jeans up and put on a pair of red suede derbies, and the look is transformed. I think that is what I find so exciting about the experience of wearing clothes, the potential to create something unique to the moment.

Adding the unexpected twist here or there is a way to express individuality. Garments which have those unexpected twists or details are always interesting. It is not simply the careful thought put into their design, but the experience for the wearer in putting on that garment. And also the potential to create an exciting look from that already exciting garment.


I loved this look. The woolly collar, the thick purple sweater, the floral pattern shirt, the cuffed jeans, and the delightfully thick socks. Indeed the chunky socks that featured throughout the collection really did stand out for me. Then again, I do have rather the penchant for interesting socks.


I found this jacket, with the cable knit sleeves, quite fascinating. Note the consistency of the fabric between torso and sleeve. It is not so much a jacket with cable knit sleeves attached, but rather a jacket with a change in texture. The sleeves do indeed contrast from the torso however it relies not on a change in colour or fabric, as would be the expected route, but rather on a change in texture. Clothing is a sensory experience, and coming from that direction alone, the jacket is an interesting piece to behold.

I personally find the styling with the cowl neck sweater beneath somewhat uneasy, as the look is far too neck-heavy, with the jacket sitting against it uneasily. However I appreciate the choice in highlighting the sleeves of the jacket, playing the cable knit against an actual knitted garment. I feel the sweater could work equally well against faded jeans and the same brown boots for a more rugged look. Of course that would go against the styling of the lookbook as a whole, however it certainly highlights the versatility of the collection.


I absolutely love this reversible jacket. A thick herringbone wool mixed with a navy diamond quilting creates quite the juxtaposition, and yet the combination is one that is inherently evocative of the country gentleman. Indeed the styling with the feathered brooch on the lapel creates the idea of the refined hunter shooting game birds.

Reversible jackets have always interested me when executed well, as not only are they essentially two garments in one, however the combination of sides is interesting to behold. Here the one side is the wool herringbone, whilst the other is the quilting with herringbone trim. The combination really is one of outdoors practicality.

I also particularly enjoyed the styling with the knitted tie and contrasting leather gloves. Knitted ties always make me think of Autumn (although I wear them without any real seasonal ruling). They are less formal than a plain silk and indeed can be worn on shirts that are that little more casual in appearance. One would look odd wearing a plain silk tie on a worn denim shirt, and yet in the same instance, a woven tie would not look especially out of place.

A series of elegant country-inspired looks, it was the attention to detail in certain garments that really made the collection for me. The evidence of careful thought behind any creative process is always interesting to me, and here it is what I enjoyed about the clothing.

Currently playing: It's Personal - The Radio Dept.

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"Well, elephants need shoes too"

Currently playing: Got Your Back ft. Keri Hilson - T.I.

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Polka Dots

Back in March, Dr. Martens were kind enough to invite a number of bloggers up to their headquarters and factory in Wollaston, Northamptonshire to celebrate their 50th Anniversary (click here for my original post). As well as a look at the upcoming campaign and factory tour we were given a glimpse of the upcoming Fall 2010 collection. The sheer diversity of styles and designs on offer were surprising to say the least, and my eyes (and hands) were drawn in all different directions. From florals to patent leathers to tassel loafers, there was quite the selection that I found enticing.

As I walked around and looked at all the designs that the collection had to offer I kept returning to the same shelf. That shelf proudly boasted a number of flocked polka dot 1461 shoes and 1460 boots. As much as I love floral patterning, there was something about the polka dots and the tactility of the flocking that had me entranced (as it did Steve). The all black soles across the range meant that the typical 49 yellow stitches, the number is constant across all sizes and designs, were replaced instead by matching black stitches, creating quite the unique and unexpected profile. Technically from the women's collection, my disappointment was quickly dissipated when I discovered that my shoe size could be accommodated.

Polka dots have always held a certain charm for me, being at once both visually interesting and comfortably evocative of childhood. Whilst a polka dot tie can add an unexpected twist to a suit, or a polka dot sweater create a statement, there is an impact to polka dot footwear in particular that is wonderfully unique. Bold footwear has always been something that I find exciting, however it is for the majority of everyday menswear an underutilized detail. A pair of well crafted black leather derby shoes are certainly a good and necessary option, however for me a pair of bottle green derby shoes with inky blue soles are that extra touch more interesting.


(A special thanks to everyone over at Dr. Martens and the team at Exposure)

Currently playing: Wine Up On Me - Zoeleah

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Teal

Currently playing: Wishes - Alison's Halo

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Below The Deck

Mutinous Bounty
Photography by Yuval Hen

In hospital for treatment.
Just getting a few kinks out of my armour.
Be right back.

Currently playing: Hello/Goodbye ft. UNKLE - Lupe Fiasco

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