For Living

Y's (Yohji Yamamoto)

Spring/Summer 2009

Yohji Yamamoto founded the Y's line before his own eponymous label, however as a mainly Japan-only project, Y's For Living is rarely seen or considered in the rest of the world.  A far more comprehensive line, with a range covering everything from clothing to furniture (just take a look around the webstore), you could come to think of it as Yohji's Muji.  Although oddly enough Yohji is actually on the advisory board for Muji, however it is not a widely broadcast fact - think of it as a fashion secret from me to you, although I believe I have mentioned it before.  In terms of clothing the aesthetic for Y's is far more accessible, and far more affordable, than Yohji's mainline work.  Whilst you can sometimes find pieces online here and there (I currently have my eye on a rather nice black mesh scarf for Summer), it is unfortunately mostly a Japanese affair even online.  Focusing on simple garments that are well constructed, they have an undeniable Yohji touch of elegance and ease that is suitable for everyday wear.

Outside of Japan Yohji's casual Coming Soon line, and for sportswear, the fantastic Y-3 collaboration with Adidas, seem to cover most bases (although I have to admit that Coming Soon has been rather a disappointment).  However I really do think a few Y's For Living full standalone stores outside of Japan would be both exciting and, perhaps more importantly, economically successful.  For a multitude of reasons prices for Japanese brands tend to require a substantial on-the-floor mark-up when sold outside of Japan to cover costs, however even accounting for such an increase in price, the full Y's range could still sell for cheaper than other secondary designer lines, not to mention the furniture.  Premium basics is an increasingly complicated market, and whilst I have a certain affinity for Damir Doma's Silent line of organic basics and Rick Owens' DRKSHDW jeans, Y's could most certainly fill a niche.

Simplicity in and of itself can belie the skill it requires, yet when done correctly it comes close to what Yohji has always said he would like to design - time.  Or to be more precise, a feeling of timelessness.  To live with clothing rather than to consume it.  Clothing that serves a function and becomes ingrained into your wardrobe and daily life.  In order to do that clothing needs to be simple, not in terms of construction or detail, but rather in terms of aesthetic and essence.  You want to be able to wear the garment itself, not a design or showpiece crafted in opposition to the garment or body.  Functionality is important, because clothing serves a purpose, and to fulfil that purpose is the truth of any garment - otherwise it risks being mere surface aesthetic and decoration.  Whilst there is space for those pieces within the wardrobe, that is not the idea behind Y's, or I believe, Yohji's work.  The relationship between wearer and idea, body and garment, designer and individual, is vital.

Pet Grief - The Radio Dept.

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