Monday, 31 December 2012

Looking Back: Part Two


Autumn/Winter 2012

Long layers, ombre fabrics, streamlined tailoring. This was a return to form for Ann. There have been questions over how much Ann is currently involved in designing her menswear, but either way there is no denying that the recent collections have felt rather lacklustre. This on the other hand was quite a beautiful display, harking back to the old Ann so many fell in love with.


Autumn/Winter 2012

Given the name of Rei Kawakubo's label, a collection entitled Neither Man Nor Woman raises a smile. Goth meets schoolgirl, and what a curiously good mix it was.


Autumn/Winter 2012

Damir moves further East in his inspirations, away from the Ottoman empire and towards the princelings of the Himalayas. But it was the simpler tailoring, rather than the overt opulence, I enjoyed in this collection. Unfortunately his latest collection for the coming Spring/Summer season, not to mention the direction Silent seems to be heading in, leaves me wishing he would return to his earlier ideas.


Autumn/Winter 2012

The way the pleats breathed when you walked in them. Fluid, graceful, enticing.


Autumn/Winter 2012

Van Assche explored and attempted to reconcile the two opposing sides of workwear. The highlight for me were the smart woolen dungarees, something I have been wanting for a while now.


Autumn/Winter 2012

What do you do after putting men in dresses and skirts? Stick them in suits inspired by Fred Astaire and 1930's skiers of course. Rick Owens inverted his traditional silhouette, albeit using one now familiar in his womenswear, with a cropped top and nipped waist paired with high waisted trousers and a tapered leg. Slick and sharp, with windswept collars thrown over one shoulder and giant puffers to keep things interesting, this collection began the dialogue of what the Rick man wears when he needs to dress up.


Autumn/Winter 2012

Miyashita moves from strength to strength, and this, his sixth collection, was for me the best SoloIst collection to date.


Autumn/Winter 2012

One of the more controversial collections of the season, with its gimp masks, furry merkins, and comically absurd muscles, was I think actually one of the cleverest. Exploring the fetishisation of the masculine body as only Thom could, this was a reminder of what a fashion show can really be.  


Autumn/Winter 2012

The soldier returns home, and for that return Umit created fifteen scenarios and the outfits they required. The show itself was a impressive theatrical performance, one that really needs to be seen to be appreciated.


Autumn/Winter 2012

From the felted wool hats, to the fleece capes, to the pilled cotton t-shirts, to the pilled wool trousers, this collection was for the wearer a tactile delight. A little comfort and reassurance for uncertain times.


xxxx

7 comments:

M said...

I like all of them. Especially Takahiro Miyashita's one.(also this model is cool!)Nice layer with use little colors as accent works. These stands up straight and looking down pose remind me your portrait photo. Gaze the camera lens next time please:)

Laura Mullins said...

GUESS WHAT. You're the bomb. I've been really shitty about keeping up with blogs, but yours is and always has been {seriously} in my top three. but shhhh, don't tell anyone. ;)

You are sophisticated and brilliant and so nice, and I hope your health's been better lately. I really respect you for keeping up with everything despite all you're going through - I'm sure most people have no idea. Anyway, xoxox to you and yours this Christmas/New Year/etc. <3

Laura Mullins said...

Uhhh, also I forgot to tell you how much I enjoyed reading this post. What a year, man.

Jason Kryptonite said...

Lovely review of 2012 fashion, happy new year!
http://jaey-jaey.blogspot.co.uk/

Anonymous said...

Wow! Such a beautiful pictures

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